Informal Coat

maker Unknown

Dateabout 1850-1900

Place MadeChina, East Asia

MediumCut voided silk velvet

Dimensions107 x 128.3 cm (42 1/8 x 50 1/2 in.)

ClassificationsCostume

Credit LineIsabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston

Accession numberT17sec127

eMuseum ID724125

EmbARK ObjectID13778

Alt. No. 4 (Old Cavallo)225

Alt. No. 1 (Siple)127

Alt. No. 2 (Cavallo)228

Textile Database Number330

TMS Source ID2639

Last Updated8/14/24

Status

Not on view

Web CommentaryWomen’s dress during the Qing Dynasty was strictly regulated, with laws stipulating that only upper class women could wear fine clothing like this coat from the 19th century. During Isabella's lifetime, the coat was hidden away in the Short Gallery secretary, where she kept many costumes and textiles. The voided velvet pattern features large sprays of peonies and chrysanthemums, two flowers that symbolize vitality and feminine beauty. When paired with the chrysanthemums, the butterflies sprinkled throughout the coat represent beauty in old age.

BibliographyNotesAdolph S. Cavallo. "An Introduction to the Textile Collection at Fenway Court." Fenway Court (1981), pp. 12, 15, fig. 12. (as Chinese, dated 1850-1900)
Adolph S. Cavallo. Textiles: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum (Boston, 1986), pp. 204-203, no. 191, ill.
Jenny Pore, "Chrysanthemum Impressions: Spotlight on our Beautiful Blooms," Inside the Collection (blog), Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 30 September 2021, https://www.gardnermuseum.org/blog/chrysanthemum-impressions-spotlight-our-beautiful-blooms

ProvenanceNotesEntered Isabella Stewart Gardner's collection at an unknown date.