Wall Hanging: Triumphal Arch
maker
Unknown
Datemid 17th century
Place MadeBengal, India, South Asia
MediumSilk chain-stitch embroidered on blue silk with cotton backing
Dimensions267 x 211 cm (105 1/8 x 83 1/16 in.)
ClassificationsFurnishings
Credit LineIsabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston
Accession numberT20e4
eMuseum ID730186
Textile Database Number1106
Alt. No. 2 (Cavallo)223
EmbARK ObjectID11835
Alt. No. 4 (Old Cavallo)219
Alt. No. 1 (Siple)001
Alt. No. 2 (Cavallo)183
TMS Source ID996
Last Updated8/14/24
Status
Not on viewWeb Commentary
This wall hanging was made by Indian embroiderers in Bengal working under Portuguese commission in the mid-17th century, when Portugal held colonies along the west coast of India. The imagery provides insights into shifting political and cultural alliances during the period. The central field of the embroidery contains the façade of one of twenty triumphal arches erected in Lisbon in 1619 to celebrate the visit of Philip III of Spain, who ruled Portugal as Philip II (r. 1598-1621). An etching published in Madrid 1622 documents the arch and is the source of the imagery in the embroidery.
The arch was sponsored by the Flemish community living in Lisbon at a time when the provinces of the Netherlands were struggling for independence from Spain. The Flemish merchants used the decorative program of the arch to express their dissatisfaction with Spanish rule. For example, there is a representation of Discordia, the goddess of strife, at the center.
Little is known about the artisans who created embroideries such as these, but several embroiderers probably worked on it simultaneously in a workshop.
The original white chain-stitched silk on a blue silk ground has become discolored over time.
BibliographyNotesGilbert Wendel Longstreet and Morris Carter. General Catalogue (Boston, 1935), p. 171. (as 17th century)
Adolph S. Cavallo. Textiles: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum (Boston, 1986), pp. 200-201, no. 183. (as 1600-1650)
Margaret Renner Lidz. "The mystery of seventeenth-century quilts." The Magazine Antiques (December 1998), pp. 834-43, pl. 7.
Pedro Moura Carvalho. Luxury for Export: Artistic Exchange between India and Portugal around 1600. Exh. cat. (Boston: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 2008), pp.60-61, no. 15. (as 17th century)
Elena Phipps in Amelia Peck (ed.) Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. Exh. cat. (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013), pp. 148-49, no. 8. (as second quarter of the 17th century)
Barbara Karl. Embroidered Histories: Indian Textiles for the Portuguese Market during the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (Weimar, 2016), pp. 215-27, no. 25.
Susan Bean, "Connecting Cultural Worlds: An Embroidery from India Celebrating Portugal's Monarchy," Inside the Collection (blog), Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 28 July 2023, https://www.gardnermuseum.org/blog/connecting-cultural-worlds-embroidery-india-celebrating-portugals-monarchy
Adolph S. Cavallo. Textiles: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum (Boston, 1986), pp. 200-201, no. 183. (as 1600-1650)
Margaret Renner Lidz. "The mystery of seventeenth-century quilts." The Magazine Antiques (December 1998), pp. 834-43, pl. 7.
Pedro Moura Carvalho. Luxury for Export: Artistic Exchange between India and Portugal around 1600. Exh. cat. (Boston: Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 2008), pp.60-61, no. 15. (as 17th century)
Elena Phipps in Amelia Peck (ed.) Interwoven Globe: The Worldwide Textile Trade, 1500-1800. Exh. cat. (New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013), pp. 148-49, no. 8. (as second quarter of the 17th century)
Barbara Karl. Embroidered Histories: Indian Textiles for the Portuguese Market during the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries (Weimar, 2016), pp. 215-27, no. 25.
Susan Bean, "Connecting Cultural Worlds: An Embroidery from India Celebrating Portugal's Monarchy," Inside the Collection (blog), Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, 28 July 2023, https://www.gardnermuseum.org/blog/connecting-cultural-worlds-embroidery-india-celebrating-portugals-monarchy
ProvenanceNotesPurchased by Isabella Stewart Gardner from the collection of Emile Peyre (1828–1904), Paris in July 1897.
Unknown
about 1725-1775